Blog - Tony P Murphy

After another cold night on the mountain (it was two degrees Celsius inside the tents) we awoke to a wonderful sight... Mt. Meru in a sea of clouds.  

Incredible view so early in the morning and a great way to begin our day.  The hike today would be a short three hours, so after a hearty breakfast we headed to Millenium camp.  The terrain was very much the same, but we did see obsidian rocks (formed when the lava from a volcano cools super fast and looks like black glass), tracks of jackal and some striped mice.  We crossed undulating terrain and finally reached our camp site, 3777 m.  Everyone was in good spirits as we are now lower than we have been in a while and all signs of altitude issues in our group are gone.

In the afternoon, just before we were going to do some protocols, a heavy rain shower descended on us.  It was a cold wet snowy rain that lasted quite a while. Indeed, if it was this heavy a shower here, it must definitely be snow up on the mountain.   And it was!  The rainy season had already begun and before we were down from the mountain.  

Instead we decided to ask the students questions on the differences between the Oman environment and the one we presently occupy.  The answers encompassed far more than scientific learning and I share some of them here with you now:

Differences Between the Oman and Kilimanjaro Environments:

Atmosphere:
Temperature low in Kilimanjaro; weather changing a lot in Kilimanjaro; soil could be planted; soil is cold; soil is loose dark and rocks; clouds very thick in Kilimanjaro; cold sun here; rainy season is two months (October and November).

Plants:
Many plants in Kilimanjaro; plants grow fast in rainforest; scrubs without thorns; nettles in rainforest; very short roots in plants, in Oman very long; plants very close, in Oman very far apart; a diversity of plants here; plants long lasting here, grow and die quickly after rain in Oman; epiphytes (plants like moss that grow on trees, not in Oman).

Overall, nothing really similar between the two environments

Animals:
No monkeys in Oman, two species at Kilimanjaro; similar insects but differences in size and color; the raven here bigger and a different species (white necked raven--Corvus albicollis); no camels here in Kilimanjaro.
 

Commonalities Between the Two Environments:

Biomes present on both areas; both have deserts just different temp and soil/rock type; have chats (bird species) just different color and size; both have rainy season; winter in Oman November to March -- rains maybe four times during that time; 15.24 mm (0.6 inch) last rain recorded by GLOBE school in Oman.  

Besides the differences and the commonalities about the two environments, the students also were asked about their feeling about the environments.  They clearly preferred their home environment and the heat!  It was clearly a challenge for this set of students to deal with the cold weather, coming from temperatures in the high 30s and 40s C with a low of mid 20s C at night to camping in an environment where inside the tent was 2C!  I'd imagine it would be same for anyone dealing with these extremes.  

Karanga camp, which is 10 m below Baranco camp is home for Monday night.  What an adventurous day we had getting there!  We began our morning taking soil moisture measurements for the SMAP campaign. 

Then we hiked the 'wall.' As we left camp, it was full with a human train -- lots of hikers, guides and porters making their way to Karanga camp, or beyond.  What a sight, there must have been over 200 people climbing this lava wall... amazing to see.  And so it was our turn to join the train.  It reminded me in some ways of the 'Wall' in the Badlands of South Dakota, although a completely different geological feature.  The idea of traversing this to continue on a journey is the same.  The top of the 'wall' is 4300 m, which is still lower than the highest point we have been at.  So, we envision that altitude won't impact anyone.

To cross the 'wall,' you really do have to climb in sections... rather like a little bouldering.  I am truly amazed at this landscape and the people who come see it and work in it.  Our team really pulled together to get everyone up the wall and we did finally reach the top.  What a view... looking down on the Baranco valley and the clouds still below us, the streams flowing with glacial melt, the sun above us and mist rolling up the valley toward us.

On the way from the wall to the camp site, we hiked several kilometers.  During that time, we even stopped to design a special feature on the landscape.

On our final approach to the camp site we crossed a stream. There we took hydrosphere measurements, soil moisture and clouds data.  Over dinner, we celebrated a birthday of one of the students and the kitchen staff arrived into the dining tent with a birthday cake.  This was followed by a big round of 'Happy Birthday' and numerous Tanzanian songs.  What a special place to celebrate your birthday!  It got us all warmed up and raised the spirits.

Tonight we have the full harvest moon, you can see some stars twinkle at us, but not many, the peak of Kilimanjaro is visible and we are experiencing another night of sub-zero temperature.  Group 2 is higher up than us... so they must really be cold.

After breakfast we split into the two groups.  Mark Brettenny of GLOBE Africa's Regional Office and I, stayed with group 1 to focus more on science.  Our next camp site is Baranco camp, 3940m, so a lower elevation than Lava Tower and set in a magnificent glacial valley. 

During the hike we stopped and took a stream measurement.  The stream was frozen, and the Omani students were excited to see it.  The water flowing underneath had a temperature of 5C. 

We hiked through a layer of clouds to get to the camp site.  As the clouds cleared our guide James told us about some of the endemic Kilimanjaro plants, including the Giant Groundsel (Senecio kilimanjari).  Its adaptation includes having 'woolly' leaves that allow it to survive the cold.

As we reached the site, we could see group 2 hiking up the 'wall.'  This is short for Baranco Wall... a practically vertical wall of lava to be climbed!  They waved their Omani flags and the students with us waved back.  It was good to make that connection.

At this campsite, we are still above some clouds.  What a beautiful sight to look down on cumulus clouds!  We got to camp relatively early and had a few restful hours for the group.  They are in good spirits now, we hope the altitude will not be such a challenge as we continue.

We began the hike to Lava Tower, our next campsite, on Saturday morning. At 4600 m it was a significant rise in altitude.  About two hours into our hike, we stopped at a stream to take some GLOBE measurements.  Here students collected data and entered it into an iPad with the GLOBE Data Entry App.  Once we get back to a Wifi connection, all the data we are collecting will be uploaded into the database for all of us to see.

Animals are difficult to see in this terrain but they do leave clues for you -- those come in all shapes and sizes.  Earlier in the day our guides had seen a lion paw print, while we were treated to scat from hyenas, Cape buffalo and Eland, a large antelope that can weigh up to 800 kilos.

Altitude was not our friend on this hike and a number of people had some difficulties.  We were hiking in very barren area for most of the afternoon, taking it slowly.  Still it became a difficult hike for some. Upon arrival at the camp, and based on the abilities of the participants, the leaders and guides decided that it would be wise to split the group.  One that would continue at lower elevations, focusing on science, while the second would pursue a safe ascent to the summit.

Very early Friday morning, we heard the Colobus monkeys screaming and howling.  We awoke to find a Blue Monkey visiting our camp and checking us out.  We left Big Tree camp to a rousing African Omani mix of songs.  Soon we would be at our first protocol destination, a site within the rainforest.  Once we arrived there we divided into groups.  We took atmosphere, hydrosphere, biosphere, and pedosphere measurements.  Once completed we began to transition from rainforest to moorland.  This had heather growing tall, as a scrub... very interesting.  We also saw sage, just like in Boulder as I hike there.  It also had the same smell.  As we continued on the hike we arrived at another stream where we stopped for more measurements.  We climbed up to our lunch site where there was a hot lunch awaiting us.

Lava bombs, some huge, some small lay strewn around the ground as if someone had cast marbles (little balls of various sizes) across the landscape.  These had been projected through the air when the volcano erupted.  As they flew through the air they began to cool, and cooled into their current round shape when they hit the ground.  Short plants were the dominant feature of life here.  In some areas, people had stacked the smaller bombs into cairns. 

Our destination on this day was Shira 1, at 3500 m.  As we approached the camp we transitioned into an area where the heather was really short and much reduced in size.  When we arrived at the camp, a rousing chorus from the porters met us and the Omani students and teachers joined in.

What a sight from our campsite... we could see Kilimanjaro... with its remaining glaciers. When we first arrived the peak was covered in clouds, but as the evening went on the clouds lifted to show its glaciers.  Soon as the temperature dropped and night approached we could see stars, but not many as a full moon was a night or two away.  Another great dinner and we were ready for the next day.